Piedmontese Cerioporus Squamosus Agnolotti

The culinary traditions of Piedmont (Piemonte) are defined by the harmony of eggs, flour, and the forest's seasonal gifts. In this elevation of the classic Agnolotti del Plin, the Cerioporus squamosus is reimagined as a luxurious pasta filling. By concentrating the mushroom's essence through a slow-roasting and grinding process, we create a stuffing that captures the earthy depth of the Italian woodlands. Each "pinch" (plin) of pasta encapsulates a molecular concentration of wood trout, delivering a profound sensory experience that honors the region's Grand Officier culinary standards.

The Culinary Physics of This Dish

The physics of the perfect agnolotti filling involves managing the moisture-to-lipid ratio. To prevent the pasta from becoming soggy, the Cerioporus squamosus is subjected to intense dehydration during roasting, which concentrates its natural sugars and amino acids. This dry-matter concentration is then re-bound with high-fat ricotta and egg yolks, creating a stable lipid-protein emulsion that remains creamy after the boiling process. The final sauce, a Beurre Noisette (brown butter), relies on the Maillard reaction of milk solids to create aromatic compounds that perfectly complement the mushroom's inherent nutty volatiles.

Terroir Narrative

Piedmont is a region where mycological research meets the art of the table. Historically, local chefs would utilize "Fungo della Squama" found on the old-growth poplars along the Po River. By pairing these foraged treasures with the rich, egg-heavy pasta dough characteristic of the Langhe hills, this dish tells a story of survival and refinement. It represents a culinary bridge between the rustic foraged "trout of the wood" and the sophisticated courts of Turin, embodying the very essence of Pure Umami's mycological culinary arts.

Master Recipe (1:10 Rule)

• 400g Cerioporus squamosus, roasted and finely minced
• 300g "00" Flour (Pasta special) mixed with 3 whole eggs and 2 yolks
• 150g Fresh Ricotta (drained of all excess whey)
• 50g Parmigiano Reggiano, 24-month aged
• 100g Unsalted Butter (high-fat European style)
• 6-8 Fresh Sage leaves
• 2g Freshly grated Nutmeg
• 8g Fine Mediterranean Sea Salt

The Technique

Create a traditional pasta fountain and knead until the dough achieves a silky, elastic consistency. Rest for 30 minutes. For the filling, combine the concentrated Cerioporus squamosus mince with ricotta, parmesan, and nutmeg. Roll the pasta into translucent sheets. Place small mounds of filling along the sheet, fold, and "pinch" (plin) to seal, creating the characteristic small, rectangular pockets.

Boil the agnolotti for exactly 3 minutes in salted water. Simultaneously, prepare the Beurre Noisette by heating butter until it foams and turns a nutty brown. Add the sage leaves to flash-fry. Transfer the pasta directly from the water into the butter, adding a splash of pasta water to create a spontaneous molecular emulsion (Emulsification) that glazes each piece of pasta with a golden, aromatic coating.

Shop Integration

To further intensify the forest profile of the filling, we recommend adding a concentrated reduction made from our манатарка (Porcini) or a sprinkle of челядинка (Fairy Ring Mushroom) powder into the pasta dough itself. For a grand finish, shave a small amount of rehydrated булка (Caesar's Mushroom) over the plated agnolotti to provide a regal visual and textural contrast.

The Umami Profile

This dish achieves Umami Saturation through the synergy of aged cheese and concentrated fungi. The Parmigiano Reggiano provides a high baseline of free L-glutamate, which acts as a flavor amplifier for the specific amino acids found in the Cerioporus squamosus. When combined with the rich lipids of the egg yolks and brown butter, the umami compounds are carried across the palate more effectively, resulting in a long-lasting, savory finish.

Sommelier’s Choice

A Barbera d'Asti is the ultimate companion. Its vibrant acidity and low tannins are designed to slice through the richness of the egg-yolk pasta and buttery sauce, while its dark fruit notes provide a beautiful counterpoint to the earthy, roasted notes of the wood trout filling.

The Etymological Chronicle

Italian: Agnolotti del Plin – From the Piedmontese "plin," meaning "to pinch," referring to the method of sealing the pasta.

French: Agnolotti au Polypore – Adopting the Piedmontese form while identifying the mushroom by its botanical family.

German: Gefüllte Teigtaschen mit Baumpilz – A descriptive name focusing on the "filled dough pockets" (Teigtaschen).

Spanish: Agnolotti de Cerioporus – Using the scientific genus to denote a gourmet, mycological preparation.

Pure Umami | Mycological Research & Culinary Arts | 2026